Just when you thought we were done posting about Bordeaux for a while, I thought I’d throw in a review from a couple months back when my wine group did a double-blind tasting of Bordeaux wines from 1990 and prior. My wine group of eight guys has been meeting monthly for about nine years now. The host picks the wine theme and most of our tastings are double-blind. This time, our wonderful host, Bill Schallert, invited the wives to join the group, so my wife, Christina, was happy to come and taste some swill. Since we had just returned a month prior from our two week trip to Bordeaux, we absolutely loved the idea of being able to taste some more mature Bordeaux wines, as most of the wines you get to taste at the Chateaux are on the younger side.
I have always really liked tasting blind, or better yet, double-blind. For those that don’t know the difference between blind and double-blind: a blind tasting is when you know the wines that are being served, but you do not know the order. A double-blind tasting is when you don’t know what wines are being served, but they may meet a category (Bordeaux 1990 and prior), and you also don’t know the order. I like blind tastings because I consider myself a perpetual student of wine, and I don’t want my opinion to be potentially swayed by any labels.
Here are the wines and the order that we tasted them in:
2003 Chateau Raveneau – Monts Mains, Chablis – Nice melon fruit a little sea breeze and oyster shell minerality on the nose. In the mouth, ripe melon, white peach and a little spice, with limestone and oyster shells. Good acidity for a 2003 Chablis, that keeps everything lively on the medium-long spicy white fruit and ocean air finish. Raveneau makes some absolutely wonderful Chablis, even in a hot year like 2003. This was a great way to start. (93 pts.)
1989 Chateau Pichon Lalande, St. Julien – Classic stinky feet Bordeaux nose with a little bit of Band-Aid jumps from the glass, sweet dark berry fruit, dry leaves, forest floor and baking spices. Medium-full bodied, with good acidity, resolved tannins and a nice long dark fruit finish. This is a classic mature Bordeaux, that is drinking very well right now. The ’89 Pichon Lalande is on a faster track and drinking more mature than most of the other 89’s that I have had. I would venture to say that it will not last nearly as long either. While a lot of the 89’s will continue to improve through 2020, I will probably finish off my ’89 Pichon Lalande before 2020. I don’t see it getting any better than where it is at present. (94 pts.)
1990 Chateau Prieure Lichine, Margaux – Darker berry nose with a little Band-Aid again. In the mouth, darker small berry fruit, black currants, slight bit of spice, decent acidity and surprisingly assertive tannins. Medium-full bodied and a long dark tannic fruit finish, that doesn’t have the sweetness of fruit the first wine had. This is a big and dark wine, but it doesn’t give you the pleasure in the finish. (89 pts.)
1981 Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien – Dark earthy red/black berry fruit nose, with just a hint of green bell pepper, but not in a bad way. In the mouth, deep dark red bing cherry and earthy blackberry fruit, baking spices, slight bit of forest floor and still fairly tannic. Full bodied and a long sweet dark tannic fruit finish. This is a big wine that is surprisingly youthful and still drinking young. I could not believe that it was from the ’81 vintage when it was revealed, it tasted more like a ’96. (93 pts.)
1982 Chateau Palmer, Margaux -Very nice spicy dark fruit and dark chocolate nose. Very smooth in the mouth, small ripe dark bing cherries and blackberries, lots of baking spices, slight bit of forest floor and resolved sweet tannins. Full bodied, sweet/spicy dark red/black fruit just singing on the very long fruit filled finish. This wine is drinking very well today and even beat the ’83 Palmer that I had about a year ago. I don’t see this wine getting any better than it is today, so no reason to wait, but no hurry either if well stored. (96 pts.)
1989 Chateau Angelus, St. Emilion – Very dark cherry fruit and chocolate nose. In the mouth, ripe black bing cherries and very dark bittersweet chocolate, good acidity and with just the slightest hint of baking spices. Full bodied and a nice long very dark chocolate fruit filled very tannic finish. This wine was very tannic and seemed a little closed in on its self, it just was not singing. You could see the huge potential, but it was begging for another decade in the cellar to really show its stuff. I know the person who brought the wine bought it on release and it has been well-stored since, so maybe it just needed a lot more air and/or more years in the cellar. (95 pts.) now with upside.
After tasting the 1989 Angelus, I mentioned to my wife “This wine tastes like a wine we just had in Bordeaux,” it just seemed so distinct. The others at the table heard me mention this to Christina, so they asked me what I thought the wine was. I said I didn’t know the vintage, but the characteristics of the wine reminded me of the ’05 and ’06 Chateau Angelus we had a month ago. I was shocked to see it was an ’89 Angelus, but glad to see that my flavor memory recall was working. I guess I learned something on that trip (and practice makes perfect, right??). The ’05 and ’06 Angelus wines were some of the highlights of our wonderful trip.
1989 Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac – Dark cherry and bitter chocolate nose. Smooth in the mouth, with dark black cherries, bitter sweet chocolate and some spice. Good acidity and still very tannic on the long dark fruit finish. This wine must have been resting in a very cold, dark cellar and is in need of another 5+ years to show what it has to offer. A very nice wine, but will not give up what it has right now. (93 pts.) with upside.
1983 Chateau Magdelaine, St. Emilion – Dark cherry fruit and spice with some dark chocolate on the nose. Very smooth in the mouth, beautiful ripe dark bing cherries, lots of baking spices and a little forest floor adds to the wonderful complexity. Fully resolved tannins, medium-full bodied and an absolutely beautiful long sweet dark spicy fruit finish. This is my first time having wine from this producer and they knocked it out of the park with the ’83. This is a gorgeous wine today, so if you own it, open a bottle. You won’t be disappointed. (96 pts.)
2005 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes – Sweet pineapple, some melon and honey on the nose. Very sweet pineapple in the mouth, with some spiced honey and decent acidity. The very sweet finish is long but the honey aspect is just a little too cloyingly sweet for my taste. It is a nice, well-made wine, but I would prefer a little more acidity to counter the sweetness. (92 pts.)
All in all, it was a very nice evening with a great group of guys (and girls). Wouldn’t mind repeating it again soon…!